Choosing grip size

This is a common query from my clients.

So here's an easy way to determine your grip size. Place your the palm of your hand against the chart and that's it!

Prince Y-shape frame

This is the stringing pattern for the unique Prince Y-shape racquet.

Though I should post the pix as many of those on the internet are not clear and you could not easily identify the location of the securing knots.

Please note the racquet structure is fragile above 20lbs tension.

DIY - Repairing loosen frame on an antique T-joint racquet

Was smashing my antique Carbonex 15  (T-joint version) hard , when I heard a sharp twack sound! Racquet looked ok but everytime I did a clear or hit the shuttle hard, the racquet did not feel right???

I later realised the frame must have loosen from the T-joint. Hence no choice but to cut the new-ish strings before any detail examinations could be conducted. 

Tugging the frame outwards - you could feel some minute movement ... but not enough to remove the frame from the T-joint.

Finally have an excuse to buy a burner...

Burner from the local shops

Apply heat to the T-joint area (only) on the sides - areas where the frame was inserted into the T-joint. You can stop applying the heat once you smell something different on each side of the T-joint eg "plastic-ky" burn smell. I then use a pair of pliers (CAUTION - HOT!) to separate the frame from the T-joint - see resultant below.

Note: Do remove the nearby grommets before using the burner - visible on the next pix(s). Please remember to reinsert them once done - some poking or drilling may be required as the epoxy may have spill-over into the holes.

After removal of frame from T-joint

Inside the T-joint

Bought a packet of the following A-B epoxy cement to reassemble the parts. Does say 3-ton ...

A-B epoxy used

Applied a generous amount of the A-B epoxy into the T-joint (after cleaning up the contact area) before re-inserting the frame ... plenty oozed out. After a quick cleanup, I used the stringing machine to hold the pieces in-place and left it overnight.

Left to cure after applying the A-B epoxy

The following pix(s) show the resultant. You can gauge the "even-ness" of the re-assembled frame from the shadows.

Side-1 after curing

Side-2 after curing

Then cames the acid test. I restung the old reliable at 22lbs and have since been reusing it for my games for the past couple weeks.

Restrung at 22lbs after re-assembly

When placed on the floor

 ... as good as new (touch wood)!!!

Balance Point of a Racquet

What is the balance point (BP) of a racquet and why is it important, you ask?

How to measure balance point - from the internet

Firstly the above pix shows how to determine the BP for a racquet. The position of the plastic pivot is where you would place your finger and the racquet would be stable and not move - as per in the pix.

The BP determines the feel of a racquet. For example, say the racquet weight is 85g with a high BP (BP towards the frame). This racquet would feel head heavy. The same 85g racquet with a lower balance point would feel lighter.

Racquet designers make use of the above property to create specialised racquets for doubles play - lighter for better defense but yet posssess enough head heaviness for a smash via a high BP.

Unfortunately material science is not there yet ... as such racquets can be fragile.

DIY - Re-inserting shaft from handle

One of my regulars said his racquet felt different during play. We then discovered the shaft had came loosen from the handle.

I offered to assist since I have extra epoxy to spare.

A-B epoxy

Removing the shaft from handle, there was a layer of pinkish powder on the shaft. Hence these had to be removed from the shaft and from inside the insertion point on the handle.

Initial condition upon removal of shaft from handle

The insertion point on the shaft seem to have been drilled with care as the shaft fit with precision into the handle.

After applying a generous amount of epoxy on the shaft, I re-inserted the shaft back into the handle. Epoxy came oozing out due to the tight tolerances. I then had to quickly cleanup the extra epoxy and place the handle on the floor (with precision). Used part of the logo on the handle backcover as reference to ensure it was parallel to the floor. Satisfied, the re-assembly was left to cure overnight.

Felt ok upon handling the next day. The owner was happy to have the re-assemble racquet back.

More stringing patterns and the securing knot

As per below from the internet.

76-holes

4-knots or 2-knots?

Firstly an overview.

You can string a racquet using a single 10m string with 2-knots, or, with 2x5m lengths and secure these 2 strings with 4-knots - see examples below.

4-knots with equal tension of horizontal and vertical string

2-knot with equal tension throughout

INFO - If you strung a racquet and then remove the string used, it will measure 8.3-8.5m.

Browsing the internet for stringing patterns, you will notice different manufacturers show pictures of either 4-knot or 2-knot patterns.

In addition, there are references for the horizontal tension to be +1/2lbs higher than the vertical when doing 4-knots.

And talking to friend(s) overseas, there seem to be regional preference(s) eg 4-knots for Down Under (Australia, NZ), around 50/50 in ASEAN nations, etc.

Thus it looks like there is no clear dominance of either 2/4-knots, either than regional influences (at this point of time).

Personally, I prefer the feedback from racquets strung using 2-knots as a single string is used thru-out the frame which permits the tension to be spread out more evenly (especially after a few hits). It's alike the bi-wiring in HIFI e.g if you check the internals of an amplifier the 2 pairs of terminals are fed from the same source, and, HIFI designers say they provided the facility due to consumer demand not because it truly provide advantages.

Similarly I do the same tension on both vertical and horizontal lines when doing 4-knots - everyone who has tried my 4-knot hybrid stringing have provided good feedback so far.