"Fake" Yonex?

I have came across fake Yonex racquets before but nothing like this. The other fake YY was copy of the ArcSaber FB which was immediately apparent once you pick it up - feels like the original YY Blacken!

This yellow beastie was another animal altogether. Build quality and finishing material quality was superb.

Physical giveaways were the YY logo at the T-joint, as well as the non-aligned wordings along the shaft.

Feels light for a 3U but handles extreme well, like the real thing.

My take is that it is a real Yonex which failed QA or one which was process "wrongly". Reason is because I believe it is a Voltaric I-Force which was finished incorrectly. When I help string the racquet, the grommets layout reminds me of the I-Force, especially the unique position of the last line to be tension on my stringing machine. I would swear it was a I-Force if it was sprayed black and passed to me for stringing!

I enclose the pix(s) below for your review.

String "Notching"

When the strings on a stringbed no longer glides across one another eg stationary, I call the effect "notching".

This is because one of the strings has actually cut into the other to created a "notch" (so to speak) eg partial cut thru. When this occurs, it is a sign your string will need to be replace in the very near future.

"Notching" is extremely common to certain brand and models - Yonex BG66 is probably the most well known of the lot. It even happens if you had the racquet restrung and left it unuse for a while! Someone I know was skeptical and did the above test ... he was disappointed to find the notch after leaving the newly strung racquet unuse for a few weeks!

The effect is most noticable on darker coloured strings - see the enclosed pix from one of my own racquet below. The notches are the white areas on the black string - after I moved the now stationary cross-string aside for the photograph.

Effects of "notching"on the strings

 

Close-up of the "notching(s)"

Even so, Yonex BG66 remains a popular choice for many players ... hence good profits since it has to be replaced often!

Appropriate string tension for the player?

In the recent years, I have receive many stringing request from novice players for tensions above 25lb? 

For instance. One high beginner (aka D-grader in terms of the Commonwealth grading system) was using 27lb. Another, a low intermediate (aka low C-grader or C2-grade) requested for his new racquet to be strung at 28lbs. Yet another - an casual lady player (aka D-grader) was using 30lb??? And so forth. When asked, the startling reason for using such high tensions -  Lee Chong Wei & Lin Dan using 30lbs and above, so a few lbs lower should be right for us???

A coach I know uses this analogy to explain the relationship between stringbed tension and how much strength is require to push the trampoline down to produce repulsion. Think of the racquet stringbed as the trampoline. If you can jump x-meter high on the trampoline (say default=22lb tension), then to reach the same height after the trampoline was set to a higher tension (say new tension=28lb), you need to push down much harder before reaching the previous height again.

Professionals like LCW and LD may require such high tensions as they do weight training and can hit the shuttle at the sweetspot most of the time. The sweetspot is the optimum area of contact between the stringbed and shuttle eg like center of gravity - optimum transfer of energy from stringbed to shuttle. Hence they could push the trampoline down hard repeatedly, with consistency.

Are Yonex strings "Made in Japan" really made in Japan?

Always wondered if the Yonex strings in the plastic packets with  MADE IN JAPAN stamp on them were really made in Japan?

Yonex string packet sold outside Japan

Pricing of the non-JP Yonex strings seem to be quite standard across the globe. However the JP string models made for their local market are always much (MUCH) more expensive eg atleast double the price!

The following are the true MADE IN JAPAN items meant for the local JP market. They always seem to be packaged in box-like containers rather than plastic. 

Various true badminton strings from Japan

If so, does it mean the Japanese consumers are being terribly overcharged for packing in a cardboard box, or, are the oversea(s) customers been sold products not MADE IN JAPAN - vs the stamp found on the packaging?

Searching the internet reveals no additional information regarding locations where Yonex manufacture strings. So much for transparency from Yonex . ..

On the other hand, Ashaway is proud to reveal they only manufacture strings at a single location in the US! Hats off to Ashaway

Alternate stringing pattern

Recently a friend showed me this less common stringing pattern. 

Alternate stringing pattern

In the past the following was use to reduce vertical string movement. The resultant vertical movement is common if a crank-type tensioning device was used because the tensioning mechanism locks when the preset tension has been reach.

Closeup of alternate stringing pattern

Choosing grip size

This is a common query from my clients.

So here's an easy way to determine your grip size. Place your the palm of your hand against the chart and that's it!

Prince Y-shape frame

This is the stringing pattern for the unique Prince Y-shape racquet.

Though I should post the pix as many of those on the internet are not clear and you could not easily identify the location of the securing knots.

Please note the racquet structure is fragile above 20lbs tension.

DIY - Repairing loosen frame on an antique T-joint racquet

Was smashing my antique Carbonex 15  (T-joint version) hard , when I heard a sharp twack sound! Racquet looked ok but everytime I did a clear or hit the shuttle hard, the racquet did not feel right???

I later realised the frame must have loosen from the T-joint. Hence no choice but to cut the new-ish strings before any detail examinations could be conducted. 

Tugging the frame outwards - you could feel some minute movement ... but not enough to remove the frame from the T-joint.

Finally have an excuse to buy a burner...

Burner from the local shops

Apply heat to the T-joint area (only) on the sides - areas where the frame was inserted into the T-joint. You can stop applying the heat once you smell something different on each side of the T-joint eg "plastic-ky" burn smell. I then use a pair of pliers (CAUTION - HOT!) to separate the frame from the T-joint - see resultant below.

Note: Do remove the nearby grommets before using the burner - visible on the next pix(s). Please remember to reinsert them once done - some poking or drilling may be required as the epoxy may have spill-over into the holes.

After removal of frame from T-joint

Inside the T-joint

Bought a packet of the following A-B epoxy cement to reassemble the parts. Does say 3-ton ...

A-B epoxy used

Applied a generous amount of the A-B epoxy into the T-joint (after cleaning up the contact area) before re-inserting the frame ... plenty oozed out. After a quick cleanup, I used the stringing machine to hold the pieces in-place and left it overnight.

Left to cure after applying the A-B epoxy

The following pix(s) show the resultant. You can gauge the "even-ness" of the re-assembled frame from the shadows.

Side-1 after curing

Side-2 after curing

Then cames the acid test. I restung the old reliable at 22lbs and have since been reusing it for my games for the past couple weeks.

Restrung at 22lbs after re-assembly

When placed on the floor

 ... as good as new (touch wood)!!!

Balance Point of a Racquet

What is the balance point (BP) of a racquet and why is it important, you ask?

How to measure balance point - from the internet

Firstly the above pix shows how to determine the BP for a racquet. The position of the plastic pivot is where you would place your finger and the racquet would be stable and not move - as per in the pix.

The BP determines the feel of a racquet. For example, say the racquet weight is 85g with a high BP (BP towards the frame). This racquet would feel head heavy. The same 85g racquet with a lower balance point would feel lighter.

Racquet designers make use of the above property to create specialised racquets for doubles play - lighter for better defense but yet posssess enough head heaviness for a smash via a high BP.

Unfortunately material science is not there yet ... as such racquets can be fragile.

DIY - Re-inserting shaft from handle

One of my regulars said his racquet felt different during play. We then discovered the shaft had came loosen from the handle.

I offered to assist since I have extra epoxy to spare.

A-B epoxy

Removing the shaft from handle, there was a layer of pinkish powder on the shaft. Hence these had to be removed from the shaft and from inside the insertion point on the handle.

Initial condition upon removal of shaft from handle

The insertion point on the shaft seem to have been drilled with care as the shaft fit with precision into the handle.

After applying a generous amount of epoxy on the shaft, I re-inserted the shaft back into the handle. Epoxy came oozing out due to the tight tolerances. I then had to quickly cleanup the extra epoxy and place the handle on the floor (with precision). Used part of the logo on the handle backcover as reference to ensure it was parallel to the floor. Satisfied, the re-assembly was left to cure overnight.

Felt ok upon handling the next day. The owner was happy to have the re-assemble racquet back.

More stringing patterns and the securing knot

As per below from the internet.

76-holes